Hi all - the anniversary of the Dragon got me pondering - how much longer do we think our machines will work for? Now, I know this will differ from machine to machine (I already have one dead, awaiting work). More I was thinking how much longer are the components rated to work for? Does the (relative) simplicity of our machines make them likely to outlast modern computers? Or have manufacturing techniques improved in the last 30 years? Any thoughts on an average Dragon lifespan?
It was this link that got me thinking - http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index ... 214AAzxsrE
Cheers all.
Will my Dragon still work in 30 years?
Re: Will my Dragon still work in 30 years?
I have my doubts about capacitors lasting 60 years.
Re: Will my Dragon still work in 30 years?
It comes down to a lot of different variables.
By and large the bulky discrete components that make up a Dragon are actually likely to last longer, much longer than the massively more complex and compact systems sold today.
First of all there are much fewer components so there is less to go wrong and the frequencies and temperatures are much lower and subsequently tend to allow the parts to last longer too.
The only part on any of mine that has ever failed was the main power switch, thankfully it was on off-the-shelf part from Tandy and it took just 15 minutes to desolder the old one and fit a new one. The cause of failure was hard to work out as I'd left the computer switched on by accident for two weeks while on holiday. The switch was melted internally but nothing around it which actually smacks more of a power surge than anything else.
Modern systems have their lifespan measured in hours - typically tens of thousands, enough to last a few years (some make a big deal out of using mil-spec solid-state components rated in 100,000 hours - enough for a good 50 years of regular use). That doesn't take into account over-heating though which (as mentioned in your linked article) will kill silicon components very, very quickly. In reality it is other parts that kill a computer, like hard drives which can be replaced or the high performance volatile memory used in the standard sdram expansion boards - again easily replaced. Budget spec systems though tend to be quite short lived - under spec'd components are the usual cause coupled with budget power supply units that can fry an entire system when they fail.
The weak points in the system is voltage regulation, eeproms and fine tuning of adjustable components (trimmers). A modern system is very tolerant of voltage irregularities and has a remarkably broad range of operation on each of the different voltage rails. Older systems lack the control over voltage and are reliant on the mains voltage being stable and correct and in the 30 years since our beloved Dragons were created the mains voltage in the UK has been cut to match the levels used on the continent so instead of 240V we now have 230V and the level can vary quite wildly, down as low as 200V sometimes depending on demand. I would expect this to cause problems but so far my old computers haven't glitched as a result. Eeproms are known to corrupt over time leading to some quite strange errors but they can be re-flashed to correct the problem. The problem with the trimmers would come down to voltage regulation as much as anything combined with any other components that are degrading slowly.
If you are really worried then the best thing to do is make sure your computer runs cold, a simple heat sink is enough for the major chip components. If you're really going for it then an active cooling system could be used but you'll need an external power source to drive the fan(s).
By and large the bulky discrete components that make up a Dragon are actually likely to last longer, much longer than the massively more complex and compact systems sold today.
First of all there are much fewer components so there is less to go wrong and the frequencies and temperatures are much lower and subsequently tend to allow the parts to last longer too.
The only part on any of mine that has ever failed was the main power switch, thankfully it was on off-the-shelf part from Tandy and it took just 15 minutes to desolder the old one and fit a new one. The cause of failure was hard to work out as I'd left the computer switched on by accident for two weeks while on holiday. The switch was melted internally but nothing around it which actually smacks more of a power surge than anything else.
Modern systems have their lifespan measured in hours - typically tens of thousands, enough to last a few years (some make a big deal out of using mil-spec solid-state components rated in 100,000 hours - enough for a good 50 years of regular use). That doesn't take into account over-heating though which (as mentioned in your linked article) will kill silicon components very, very quickly. In reality it is other parts that kill a computer, like hard drives which can be replaced or the high performance volatile memory used in the standard sdram expansion boards - again easily replaced. Budget spec systems though tend to be quite short lived - under spec'd components are the usual cause coupled with budget power supply units that can fry an entire system when they fail.
The weak points in the system is voltage regulation, eeproms and fine tuning of adjustable components (trimmers). A modern system is very tolerant of voltage irregularities and has a remarkably broad range of operation on each of the different voltage rails. Older systems lack the control over voltage and are reliant on the mains voltage being stable and correct and in the 30 years since our beloved Dragons were created the mains voltage in the UK has been cut to match the levels used on the continent so instead of 240V we now have 230V and the level can vary quite wildly, down as low as 200V sometimes depending on demand. I would expect this to cause problems but so far my old computers haven't glitched as a result. Eeproms are known to corrupt over time leading to some quite strange errors but they can be re-flashed to correct the problem. The problem with the trimmers would come down to voltage regulation as much as anything combined with any other components that are degrading slowly.
If you are really worried then the best thing to do is make sure your computer runs cold, a simple heat sink is enough for the major chip components. If you're really going for it then an active cooling system could be used but you'll need an external power source to drive the fan(s).
Re: Will my Dragon still work in 30 years?
I was obviously tempting fate by making this posting, as now both my Dragons are currently playing up! My 32 has a really sensitive power socket - if I even look too hard at where the power plugs into the back of the machine, it makes a nasty noise and restarts. The 64 has similar issues with the joystick/serial/tape connectors - if I were to just touch something plugged into them, let along plug/unplug something, the computer either reboots or corrupts itself.
I'm guessing there's something up with where these socket blocks are soldered onto the motherboard - I've heard terms like 'dry solder joints' before, but I'm not really clear what that actually means. I'm a software guy, not a hardware one, but I'm also up for a challenge. Any thoughts at all as to how to fix these problems? Not scared to use a soldering iron if that's what it takes!
Cheers in advance!
I'm guessing there's something up with where these socket blocks are soldered onto the motherboard - I've heard terms like 'dry solder joints' before, but I'm not really clear what that actually means. I'm a software guy, not a hardware one, but I'm also up for a challenge. Any thoughts at all as to how to fix these problems? Not scared to use a soldering iron if that's what it takes!
Cheers in advance!
Re: Will my Dragon still work in 30 years?
tjewell (T. Jewell? T. J. Ewell?), a dry solder joint can occur when a part is soldered (by leaving the iron on the solder for too long) so your problems are unlikely to be dry solder joints as your Dragons have been working for many years before any problem occurred. That said, you can still check for dry solder joints as the check is simple, dry solder joints will appear dull rather than having the shiny finish of a good joint.
If there is any problem with the solder joints of the sockets it is more likely caused by simple mechanical stress. Pushing and pulling plugs into unsecured sockets will stress any solder that holds the socket in place which can lead to a loose electrical connection. Though the power socket on a Dragon is secured it could be that the securing bolts have come loose thus exposing the solder joints to stress, or the design may be poor leading to stress on the solder joints despite the bolts; either way you should check that the nuts are tight.
I would check the solder joints for any obvious loose connections then use a multimeter to check the connections. Should you find any loose connections and wish to repair them remember to use lead solder plus a soldering iron that is suitable for use with lead solder as the Dragon pre-dates RoHS legislation. Afterwards check that your repairs are good with a multimeter.
Obviously you should not have your Dragons plugged in when doing any of the above, and when dealing with the power input make doubly sure that your repairs are good and that there are no solder blobs short circuiting anything.
If there is any problem with the solder joints of the sockets it is more likely caused by simple mechanical stress. Pushing and pulling plugs into unsecured sockets will stress any solder that holds the socket in place which can lead to a loose electrical connection. Though the power socket on a Dragon is secured it could be that the securing bolts have come loose thus exposing the solder joints to stress, or the design may be poor leading to stress on the solder joints despite the bolts; either way you should check that the nuts are tight.
I would check the solder joints for any obvious loose connections then use a multimeter to check the connections. Should you find any loose connections and wish to repair them remember to use lead solder plus a soldering iron that is suitable for use with lead solder as the Dragon pre-dates RoHS legislation. Afterwards check that your repairs are good with a multimeter.
Obviously you should not have your Dragons plugged in when doing any of the above, and when dealing with the power input make doubly sure that your repairs are good and that there are no solder blobs short circuiting anything.